Replacing bottom row roof tile
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Nov 2012: The broken tile before any attemp at remediation. Had I known then what I know now, I might have tried to repair it with caulk. However, the missing bits were lost, so I'd have had to fill the gaps with pieces that didn't match very well.
Nov 2012: The broken tile before any attemp at remediation. Had I known then what I know now, I might have tried to repair it with caulk. However, the missing bits were lost, so I'd have had to fill the gaps with pieces that didn't match very well.
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May 30: The gap after removing the broken tile. You can clearly see the ridges in the mortar, which mate with those in the tile (see tile detail later). Also note the foam at the top. I learned from the repair roofer that the foam doesn't hold anything up; it's purely an adhesive–they squirt a bead of foam, put the tile down, and the foam expands and holds tile to roof.
May 30: The gap after removing the broken tile. You can clearly see the ridges in the mortar, which mate with those in the tile (see tile detail later). Also note the foam at the top. I learned from the repair roofer that the foam doesn't hold anything up; it's purely an adhesive–they squirt a bead of foam, put the tile down, and the foam expands and holds tile to roof.
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May 30: The lip of tile to the left of the removed tile. Note the two ridges on the underside. It's possible to slip a new tile under the outer ridge without lifting the other tile, but getting it under the inner ridge requires lifting the tile to the left -- which is firmly attached to the mortar. And the mortar gets in the way of slipping the new tile in from below, as would normally be done.
May 30: The lip of tile to the left of the removed tile. Note the two ridges on the underside. It's possible to slip a new tile under the outer ridge without lifting the other tile, but getting it under the inner ridge requires lifting the tile to the left -- which is firmly attached to the mortar. And the mortar gets in the way of slipping the new tile in from below, as would normally be done.
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May 30: Showing the normal overlap of two tiles, for reference.
May 30: Showing the normal overlap of two tiles, for reference.
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May 30: The underside of a spare tile. (We have since learned that the tiles were made by the same local company which installed them. Unfortunately the warranty recently expired.)
May 30: The underside of a spare tile. (We have since learned that the tiles were made by the same local company which installed them. Unfortunately the warranty recently expired.)
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June 5: The roofer caulking the new tile after replacing it. He lifted several tiles above to get it in. He tried to lift the adjacent tile which the new one had to fit under, but it was too tight to the mortar and broke. A later photo shows the break, which he repaired by gluing the pieces with caulk.
June 5: The roofer caulking the new tile after replacing it. He lifted several tiles above to get it in. He tried to lift the adjacent tile which the new one had to fit under, but it was too tight to the mortar and broke. A later photo shows the break, which he repaired by gluing the pieces with caulk.
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June 5: The new tile in place.
June 5: The new tile in place.
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June 5: Detail of new roof tile where the tile to its left overlaps it.
June 5: Detail of new roof tile where the tile to its left overlaps it.
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June 5: Detail showing the new tile overlapping the tile to the right. Note that the new joint is not as tight as a normal one.
June 5: Detail showing the new tile overlapping the tile to the right. Note that the new joint is not as tight as a normal one.
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June 5: Detail of new roof tile where the tile to its left overlaps it. Also showing where the other tile broke. You can't see in the photo, but the broken tile to the left is glued in place with caulk (actually Titebond Metal Roof Sealant, which the roofer says is ideal for this application despite the name).
June 5: Detail of new roof tile where the tile to its left overlaps it. Also showing where the other tile broke. You can't see in the photo, but the broken tile to the left is glued in place with caulk (actually Titebond Metal Roof Sealant, which the roofer says is ideal for this application despite the name).
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